New York Fashion Week not valid anymore? I was insulted, appalled and just down right amazed that something would even be discussed among fashion industry executives. As I began to read the articles though, I began to understand.

The thing is that the designers over at the CFDA are not seeing the benefits with showing their designs in the conventional shows. They show their clothing and within the week(sometimes the day) the pictures have rocked the blogosphere before even the major websites like Style and WWD have them for review. This means that trends get confused, and people take inspiration from these future shows. What is on the racks now is old and out of style because we’ve already seen next year’s fashions and that’s what we want!

Also fashions change at the drop of the hat because of style blogs like The Sartorialist that broadcast styles all over the world. One trend catches fire and oxford heels morph to oxford flats! Stores have to restock their shelves quickly to stay in popularity! These are just a few problems.

There are many ideas about solving the problem but I have one that I want to throw into the mix. Why don’t we have two types of fashion weeks. WAIT WAIT DON’T KILL ME YET DESIGNERS… just listen.

Okay have one fashion week that is for the industry only. It’s like ultra exclusive kind of like Hong Kong Luxury Week. Like maybe the only people who are admitted are people who are members of a council… kind of like CFDA. This means the shows would be low budget. You would need to pay for models of course but you could have a central small location and just show your garments. It could even like a show room show. The thing is, it’s only for the fashion industry and the pictures don’t come out. The reason is, this week follows the present fashion schedule of being a year and a season ahead of time. The second type of week would not.

The second type of week would only be a season ahead of time and would be open basically to other people. This would include bloggers, and other journalists who had not reached CFDA status. Also this would allow more general public access to shows because the serious industry top tier would not have to be present. These shows would be conducted like the present shows with fan fare, press, and everything else.

Now let’s see the effects, now trends are not confused because well, we don’t have a year and a season lapse between show and the time the clothes go out. Also designers can personalize the shows so for the fashion executives they really get a sense of the clothing, they get up close and personal whereas for everyone else it is just that, a show. You see clothing, and an amazing show, they are intent on developing the mood and the right scene and would be like I said before very much like the present shows.

I’m a lover of shows so I can never see myself totally phasing them out. If someone declares they are not “in” anymore, when I make it big… I guess I’ll just have to be vintage because I know I’ll want them back! I got to go now though… work in the morning.

Get other coverage:

The Observer
Style List

WEDNESDAY JULY 15, 2009
6 PM BOHÉME BOUTIQUES Pool Deck
7-9 PM OFFICIAL KICK OFF PARTY The Raleigh
9-11 PM OCEAN DRIVE JULY/AUGUST COVER PARTY Hosted by Cover Model Nicole Trunfio Nikki Beach, 1 Ocean Drive

THURSDAY JULY 16, 2009
7 PM TIBI Cabaña Grande
8 PM CAFFÉ SWIMWEAR Beachway
9 PM MARYSIA SWIM Oasis

FRIDAY JULY 17, 2009
4-6 PM CRYSTAL JIN Press Preview Penthouse
6 PM ANK by Mirla Sabino Beachway
7 PM TRUE RELIGION SWIMWEAR Cabaña Grande
8 PM RED CARTER Beachway
9 PM AQUA DI LARA Oasis
10 PM L*SPACE by Monica Wise Cabaña Grande

SATURDAY JULY 18, 2009
4-6 PM TORI PRAVER SWIMWEAR Press Preview Penthouse
6 PM MARA HOFFMAN Beachway
7 PM ED HARDY SWIMWEAR Cabaña Grande
8 PM WHITE SANDS AUSTRALIA Beachway
9 PM POKO PANO Oasis
10 PM XTRA LIFE LYCRA® Cabaña Grande

SUNDAY JULY 19, 2009
7 PM VITAMIN A Cabaña Grande
8 PM CIA.MARÍTIMA Beachway
9 PM LULI FAMA Oasis
10 PM V DEL SOL Cabaña Grande 11PM-1AM V DEL SOL After Party

When I saw the schedule, I didn't recognize the name. Then again, I'm not as into the fashion industry as I would like to think I am, so I did what any respectable apprentice of a craft would do, I began to research him. I found a few articles about ALEXIS MABILLE before eventually happening upon his website and biography. I found the picture above at HIGH SNOBIETY, and decided that it would be a good opening since before this show many pegged ALEXIS MABILLE as the bow tie guy, this Ken doll bow tie, being one of the many he designed.

Mabille's biography a love of fashion, sparked by museums and attics. As a teenager, young Mabille got his first taste for design when he began creating theatre and party costumes, as well as designing for friends and family. After studying at Paris' CHAMBRE SYNDICALE, he began partaking in apprenticeships at NINA RICCI and UNGARO before settling at CHRISTIAN DIOR. The nine years spent there created fine jewelry for JOHN GALLIANO and the DIOR HOMME line overseen by HEDI SLIMANE. He told VOGUE “I was an intern at the beginning when I started with Dior and I stayed for nine years because it was a great place to work. It was a crazy time, very fun: everything was open. It taught me that something not very beautiful, something from daily life, can be made amazing. I had a very good relationship with Galliano and with the label, but I felt it was time to follow my own vision,” about the time spent there. Mabille also told VOGUE that he would really love to dress the Queen.

Choosing pictures for this line proved a tad more difficult than for DIOR, but I did it. The following 4 pictures, I found at STYLE, where the entire collection and an accompanying article, can be viewed. Sadly, I couldn't find the board for the models but that only means we can plunge right into the show!



I bring you this first dress because unlike my friends over at TLo, I like bows on a woman, if placed correctly. Whereas I do believe that there is a better positioning for this particular bow(which I saw by my "Best Dressed" winner's dress for my prom this year,) I still like the look. It, like most of the collection, is kind of like wearable couture. It's couture that really and truly, I could see a variety of women wearing.



For this next number, a tasteful sheer concoction, I will give you background. Style reports that Mabille's story line dictated a girl waking from a night of fitfull sleeping to find herself entangled in her pajamas. Now these are not the flannels, that my family wears but apparently sheer, flowing, and silken pieces. They quote Mabille saying "I wanted it to look loose and casual-fitting, so she can wear things with the attitude of pulling on a T-shirt," which is what I see in this look. It looks very comfortable and very fluid. To me it seems as if anyone wearing it would have the comfortability of a T-shirt while the look of something much more priceless.



This look, is just that, alot of look. Mabille rolls his many signatures into one look: the sheer fluidity and the bow tie leave me, hours after I saw it for the first time, still trying to decide if I like it or not. My mind wants to say somethings off but, I just can bring myself to say it, especially being a lover of movement like I am. The sheer material seems to create a visual aura around the model, and truthfully I'm still undecided.



Lastly I present you with this, a look that I am decided upon. This chic evening suit with it's white scalloped edged peacoat Made me actually decide to post. The golden buttons, and what I'm going to bet is a black bow in the back make me smile. The sheer material cum scarf around her neck is an added plus and really and truly I'm not positive what makes the look so right in my eyes. Maybe it's the clean and chic quality... I don't know but I do know... I like... I like.



Mr. Mabille himself came out with a small bit of couture on his pants... probably just found it's way there in all that hard craftsmanship.

MICHAELA KOCIANOVA, of Slovlakia, is shot here by the bloggers over at JACK AND JILL. It's a stunning shot, outside of the CHRISTIAN DIOR headquaters on AVENUE MONTAIGNE. I thought it'd be perfect to start off the post with.

This year, JOHN GALLIANO returned the DIOR couture show, owned by the LVMH group (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy). Many speculated that the move to "home" as GALLIANO referred to the headquaters, was a result of the many cutbacks happing nationwide at fashion houses, but after being presented with a floral decoration of over 4,000 roses, the rumors were quelled as, SIDNEY TOLEDANO, the president and Chief Executive of CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE, admitted to THE NEW YORK TIMES that it was just as expensive to have the show in-house, as it would've been to have it elsewhere.



For inspiration, Mr. Galliano looked to the women of old. He studied the 1950s pictures depicting models in their dressing rooms, in various states of dress, like the pictures above. NEW YORK TIMES quotes him saying "I call it 'cabine' fever!" He studied the girdles, and bras depicted as well as, giving close attention to the DIOR tailoring. He wanted to embody the iconic feeling so much that in his fitting rooms he had enlarged photos depicting the women he wanted to imitate, saying "It’s to inspire the little ones, to help them feel what they’re wearing" to WWD. Inspire they did. Below is the small note that each model saw before making her way through the series of small rooms and saloons.



When searching for a number of pictures for each post, the number 4 stuck out to me, so that is what you will see of each collection. You will see four runway looks and also various links that can provide full coverage.



It's not just male jackets that I'm a sucker for you guys! This high bar jacket a signature of the DIOR line was of the ultimate interest to me! The color, like most of the other pieces in the line, was bright, a yell for attention, and the design backed it up. Ever one for innovative sleeves, I found myself saving this picture to be displayed. GALLIANO sent many of the models out, in various states of undress, placing emphasis on the makings of couture, and the splendid lingerie. The effect played well with the watchers “I loved the outside underwear and the black and flesh colors together" said MARION COTILLARD, the present cover model, for DIOR.



This dress had me oggling over the meticulus details! I love the color and no way believe that it's to light for the model's skin. Again, the way the dress opens at the front gives anyone watching a glimpse into the underpinnings of such a daring outfit.



I selected this picture because well, it contains alot of the outfits I wanted to put up and also Mr. GALLIANO himself. With all of these looks in the same photo, you can easily see the fluidity in the line, and the mood that Mr. GALLIANO labored to procure.



Lastly, was this amazing dress. It wasn't bits and peices, but a full look, undoubtedly one of my favorites in the bunch. The diamonds dripping from her neck and ears are just the right amount, and her nude wrists and hands do nothing but put the dress further in the spotlight. I LOVE!!

While writing this I found an article and gallery here at WWD.

For Day One of the Paris Haute Couture F/W 2010 Fashion week our schedule dictated,

Monday, 6 July
ALEXIS MABILLE 10.00 am L'Académie - 14 rue Royale - Paris 1er
STÉPHANE ROLLAND 11.00 am Palais de la Découverte
CHRISTOPHE JOSSE 12.00 pm Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine - 11 avenue Albert de Mun - Paris 16e
CHRISTIAN DIOR 2.30 & 5.00 pm See invitation
ADELINE ANDRÉ 6.00 pm To be confirmed
ALEXANDRE MATTHIEU 7.00 pm To be confirmed

Yesterday, I did extensive research, looking for any picture that I could find, before going to lunch. While there I hoped that my Google cache would fill itself with pictures. Then I found out that we were going out of the state and wouldn't get back until late, so I wouldn't have the time to check on any new developments. This morning I rushed to my reader to find that the bloggers had not let me down.


JACK AND JILL were first up. I looked in their Paris Fashion Week category to find this picture. I was salivating at this bit of roadside couture that resembled a white rose dipped in blood. I apologize for the visual, but that's what it seemed to me. For me, the large golden ring only added to the splendedness of the look. I found the French manicure and purse to be, small and unneeded. I think the dress is DIOR though... maybe it was outside of the DIOR show though.



Next I was presented with these, GIUESEPPE ZANOTTI sandals worn by ALEXANDRA GOLOVANOFF, a French TV personality. Being one who adores a rightly placed buckle, I was positively floored!
So after seeing those, and a few other pictures of interest, I moved back to the Reader to find a FASHION WEEK DAILY reports, detailing a crowd outside of the DIOR show, all awaiting, MARION COTILLARD, who arrived late.



The reports also spoke of the editors and other show attendants hitting up a carnival in the Tuileries, pictured below, in their spare time between shows.



My overall research of the day ended with a sneak peak of the CHANEL show. Well it wasn't so much a sneak peak as it was a revelation. KARL LAGERFELD revealed to a select few editors that the inspiration of the couture show, which will be held today, was "floating panels." I found the tidbit on KARL LAGERFELD.

You don't know how much I've been waiting for this, and searching to make sure that I had in my Blogger cache, just the right blogs, so I would be able to get the pictures. I was desperate this morning checking the schedule, and then checking the clock, I even went so far as to pull up a Parisian clock, to see the local time. Then, I arrived at my Twitter to find,

womensweardaily:Marion Cotillard just arrived in a black dress - trailed by bellowing paparazzi - at Chrisian Dior, so the couture show can begin.

And rushed over to my Google Reader to be rewarded with this from THE SARTORIALIST.

I almost peed myself! But, because there wasn't any actual show coverage, I held it. This is the beginning of the first, couture show if you check your schedule. So what do I do? I begin to research.

This post though, has been thought out since I saw the pictures for it last week over at Style Bubble. The couture designs were just what I would need to get the ball rolling on this series of posts.

The collection is called "Wound" and that's what it had me when I saw it. For you conservatives, there's nothing much to see here, but for anyone who is willing to go out into the artistic side of fashion with Marit Fujiwara(the designer), Susie(from Style Bubble), and myself, let's go!

The only information that Susie provided us with about Marit is that "Marit Fujiwara is a BA Textile Design grad from Chelsea College of Art and Design." That was not sufficient for me, so a simple Google run of her name, with a few clicks here and their brought me some more. Her commentary to the bloggers at Homework was, "To create a sculptural fabric, I am experimenting with the printing technique of marbling,in combination with embroidery,bonding and pleating. Applying these fabrics into fashion creates unusual and intricate fashion garments, " when she presented her work June 20-24.

That was it though: No one else could give me more about the girl. I found her Facebook and Friend Requested but, that was it. On her IQONS account I could only find that she calls Rio De Janiero her home.

After that failed attempt I decided to stick with what I had! After reading reviews calling the line "Watercolor Couture", "colorful moss over a treetrunk," and a "reminder of rodarte,". I've decided to let the amazing work speak for itself. I would like to point out though that the work is so tedious, and painstaking, that more than likely Marit, will have to udnersell it, becuase if sold for it's true value, it will be something that we could only gaze at.

The color of the skirt and neckline in the picture that follows reminded me of the chocolate eclairs Mme. Quave fed us in the french honor society meetings. Or maybe they were puffs....

Detailing:


Detailing

And my personal favorite!!! With it's accompanying detailing!

Thanks Style Bubble, for the schedule!!!


Monday, 6 July
ALEXIS MABILLE 10.00 am L'Académie - 14 rue Royale - Paris 1er
STÉPHANE ROLLAND 11.00 am Palais de la Découverte
CHRISTOPHE JOSSE 12.00 pm Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine - 11 avenue Albert de Mun - Paris 16e
CHRISTIAN DIOR 2.30 & 5.00 pm See invitation
ADELINE ANDRÉ 6.00 pm To be confirmed
ALEXANDRE MATTHIEU 7.00 pm To be confirmed

Tuesday, 7 July
ATELIER GUSTAVO LINS 10.00 am Galerie Nathalie Obadia
GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ 11.30 am Palais de Chaillot
CHRISTIAN LACROIX 2.30 pm To be confirmed
GIVENCHY 5.00 pm See invitation
DOMINIQUE SIROP 7.00 pm Hôtel Meurice
CHANEL 9.00 pm Grand Palais - avenue Winston Churchill - Paris 8e

Wednesday, 8 July
ON AURA TOUT VU 10.00 am To be confirmed
FRANCK SORBIER 11.00 am See invitation
ELIE SAAB 12.30 pm Pavillon Cambon Capucines - 46 rue Cambon - Paris 1er
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 2.30 pm 325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e
LEFRANC.FERRANT 4.00 pm Palais Royal
JOSEP FONT 5.00 pm To be confirmed
VALENTINO 6.30 pm To be confirmed
MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ 7.30 pm 38 boulevard Raspail - Paris 7e


MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA july 7 & 8, 2009 - from 10.00 am to 1.00 pm & 2.00 pm to 6.00 pm Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine - 1 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e